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References in Print 2

Part 2.


2. Specific Instances of the Term ‘Dogstooth’ and Variants

A simple listing of all instances of the specific term ‘Dogstooth’ and variants. Note that near relations with hyphens, gaps and apostrophes of the word such as ‘dog-tooth’, ‘dog tooth’ and ‘dog’s tooth’ etc, are included (but not related terms such as ‘hounds-tooth’, ‘hound’s tooth’ etc of which I compile its own separate listing).

Faux associations:

The venom clamours of a jealous woman poison more deadly than a mad dog's tooth (Shakespeare, The Comedy of Errors)

The erythronium, or dog's tooth violet (many references),

… is the most perfect Norman dog-tooth arch that is known to exist.

The bodice was mounted on to a round yoke with tiny dog-tooth points, and …

… also a fine grotto of dogtooth crystals.

… or the dog-toothed Wagtail, or some other rare bird

… and the dog-tooth snapper, of white, with six transverse dark bands ... These lovely fishes …

… try and defend the dogtoothed stronghold of Amba Alajl,

… and fierce dog-toothed rocks make up the coast-line,

… was like cynodont (dog-toothed) reptiles that closely resembles...

* Likely, even almost certainly, used in a different context.

** Included as a faux instance in fashion.


1885?

Cornwall Cornishman Thursday, March 26, 1885 (*dog-tooth pattern) NA

N.B. As such, despite a fabric reference, I am unsure of the context.  As can be seen, it is quite an outlier, and so I reserve judgement on this.


1907
Examiner (Launceston, Tas.) Saturday 29 June 1907 p. 9 Advert (*dog’s tooth check tweed) (the first Australian reference) Tr.

N.B. the same advert appears in the next four papers.

Daily Telegraph (Launceston, Tas.) Monday 1 July 1907 p. 1 Advert (*dog’s tooth check tweed)  Tr.

Examiner (Launceston, Tas.) Tuesday 2 July 1907 p. 1 Advert (*dog’s tooth check tweed) Tr.

Daily Telegraph (Launceston, Tas.) Thursday 4 July 1907 p. 1 Advert (*dog’s tooth check tweed)  Tr.

Examiner (Launceston, Tas.) Friday 5 July 1907 p. 1 Advert  (*dog’s tooth check tweed) Tr.

The Daily Telegraph (Sydney, NSW) Monday 8 July 1907 p. 12 Advert (*dog tooth checks) Tr.


1910

The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW) Monday 14 March 1910 p. 12 Advert (*dog-tooth checks) Tr.

The Daily Telegraph (Sydney, NSW) Monday 14 March 1910 p. 12 Advert (*dog tooth checks)  Tr.

The Daily Telegraph (Sydney, NSW) Monday 25 April 1910 p. 12 Advert (*Dog tooth check) Tr.


1912

London Standard Monday, December 2, 1912 (*dog-tooth pattern) FAUX N.B. Non-fabric context NA


1913

Hutchinson News Saturday, March 8, 1913 (dog tooth patterns) (the first US reference) NA

Ogden Examiner Saturday, March 8, 1913 (dog tooth patterns) NA

Salt Lake Tribune Sunday, March 9, 1913 (dog tooth patterns) NA

Lincoln Daily Star Sunday, March 9, 1913 (dog tooth patterns) NA

Bakersfield Californian Monday, March 10, 1913 (dog tooth patterns) NA

Waterloo Evening Courier Wednesday, March 12, 1913 (dog tooth patterns) NA

Joplin Daily Globe Sunday, March 16, 1913 (dog tooth patterns) NA

Janesville Daily Gazette, Wednesday, March 19, 1913 (dog tooth patterns) NA

The Daily Telegraph (Sydney, NSW) Monday 18 August 1913 p. 12 Advert Tr.

The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW) Monday 25 August 1913 p. 6 Advert Tr.


1914

The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW) Monday 16 February 1914 p. 16 Advert Tr.

The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW) Monday 2 March 1914 p. 16 Advert Tr.

The Daily Telegraph (Sydney, NSW) Monday 2 March 1914 p. 12 Advert Tr.

Freeman's Journal (Sydney, NSW) Thursday 5 March 1914 p. 22 Advert Tr.

The Farmer and Settler (Sydney, NSW) Friday 6 March 1914 p. 8 Article Tr.

The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW) Saturday 7 March 1914 p. 29 Advert Tr.

The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW) Monday 9 March 1914 p. 14 Advert Tr.

The Daily Telegraph (Sydney, NSW) Monday 9 March 1914 p. 12 Advert Tr.

Examiner (Launceston, Tas.) Saturday 14 March 1914 p. 7 Advert Tr.

The Daily News (Perth, WA) Tuesday 24 March 1914 p. 6 Advert Tr.

The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW) Wednesday 25 March 1914 p. 26 Advert Tr.

The Bathurst Times (NSW) Wednesday 25 March 1914 p. 3 Advert Tr.

The West Australian (Perth, WA) Wednesday 25 March 1914 p. 6 Advert Tr.

The Bathurst Times (NSW) Thursday 26 March 1914 p. 3 Advert Tr.

National Advocate (Bathurst, NSW) Thursday 26 March 1914 p. 5 Advert Tr.

The Daily Telegraph (Sydney, NSW) Friday 27 March 1914 p. 16 Advert Tr.

The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW) Friday 27 March 1914 p. 18 Advert Tr.

The Daily Telegraph (Sydney, NSW) Monday 30 March 1914 p. 12 Advert Tr.

The Express and Telegraph (Adelaide, SA) Monday 30 March 1914 p. 2 Advert Tr.

National Advocate (Bathurst, NSW) Friday 3 April 1914 p. 5 Advert Tr.

The Bathurst Times (NSW) Monday 6 April 1914 p. 3 Advert Tr.

The Daily Telegraph (Sydney, NSW) Monday 6 April 1914 p. 16 Advert Tr.

National Advocate (Bathurst, NSW) Monday 6 April 1914 p. 5 Advert Tr.

The Daily Telegraph (Sydney, NSW) Wednesday 8 April 1914 p. 24 Advert Tr.

The Maitland Daily Mercury (NSW) Wednesday 15 April 1914 p. 8 Advert Tr.

The West Australian (Perth, WA) Wednesday 22 April 1914 p. 6 Advert Tr.

The West Australian (Perth, WA) Thursday 23 April 1914 p. 6 Advert Tr.

The Daily Telegraph (Sydney, NSW) Friday 24 April 1914 p. 16 Advert Tr.

The West Australian (Perth, WA) Friday 24 April 1914 p. 6 Advert Tr.

The Bathurst Times (NSW) Friday 24 April 1914 p. 2 Article Tr.

The Maitland Weekly Mercury (NSW) Saturday 25 April 1914 p. 11 Article Illustrated Tr.

The West Australian (Perth, WA) Saturday 25 April 1914 p. 10 Advert Tr.

The West Australian (Perth, WA) Monday 27 April 1914 p. 6 Advert Tr.

To be continued? (Australia references, of which there are an overwhelming number!)


1925

Derbyshire Advertiser and Journal Friday 3 July 1925 Article p. 2 VERIFY. BNA

1926

Daily Kennebec Journal Saturday, August 7, 1926


1927

The Bystander Wednesday 20 April 1927 Illustrated Pp: 59, 60, 62 (the first UK reference) BNA


1929

Britannia and Eve Sunday 1 December 1929, p. 12 Advert BNA

1930

Bath Chronicle and Weekly Gazette, Saturday 10 May 1930, p. 15 (*dogtooth) BNA

Western Mail, 15 November 1930, p. 9 (dogtooth) BNA

1931

Madison Capital Times Sunday, August 2, 1931 (*dog’s tooth) NA

Southern Reporter, Thursday 20 August 1931, p. 3 (dogtooth) BNA

Southern Reporter, Thursday 3 September 1931, p. 3 (dogtooth) BNA
The Scotsman, Saturday 5 September 1931, p. 20 (dogtooth) BNA
The Scotsman, Monday 7 September 1931, p. 14 (dogtooth) BNA
The Tatler, Wednesday 7 October 1931, p. 79 (dogtooth) BNA
The Sketch, Wednesday 30 December 1931, p. 47** (dogtooth) BNA

1932

Lawrence Journal World Wednesday, September 14, 1932 (*Dog tooth suiting with checks) NA

Western Mail, Saturday 3 December 1932, p. 3 (dogtooth) BNA

1933

Liverpool Echo, Monday 27 February 1933, pp. 7-8 (dogtooth) BNA
Yorkshire Evening Post, Wednesday 8 March 1933, p. 11 (dogtooth) BNA

Sheffield Independent, Monday 13 March 1933, p. 8 (dogtooth) BNA
Yorkshire Evening Post, Monday 27 March 1933, p. 11 (dogtooth) BNA
Liverpool Echo, Wednesday 5 April 1933, p. 8 (dogtooth) BNA
Dundee Evening Telegraph, Tuesday 11 April 1933, p. 7 (dogtooth) BNA
Liverpool Echo, Monday 22 May 1933, p. 8 (dogtooth) BNA
Sunderland Daily Echo and Shipping Gazette, Friday 28 July 1933, p. 14 (dogtooth) BNA


1934

Bexhill-on-Sea Observer, Saturday 27 January 1934, p. 3  (*dogtooth checks) BNA
Hastings and St Leonards Observer, Saturday 27 January 1934, p. 12 BNA
Belfast Telegraph (NI), Tuesday 20 March 1934, p. 10 BNA
Nottingham Evening Post, Monday 9 July 1934, p. 4 BNA
Illustrated London News, Saturday 22 September 1934, p. 35 (*dog-tooth check) BNA

1935

Liverpool Echo, Tuesday 1 January 1935, p. 8 (*dogtooth check) BNA
Dundee Courier, Thursday 24 January 1935, p. 12 (*dogtooth check) BNA
Dundee Courier, Thursday 25 January 1935, p. 13 (*dog-tooth check) BNA

Lichfield Mercury, Friday 19 April 1935, p. 3 (dog-tooth check) BNA
Tamworth Herald, Saturday 20 April 1935, p. 11 (dog-tooth check) BNA
Londonderry Sentinel (NI), Saturday 10 August 1935, p. 3 BNA

Britannia and Eve, Sunday 1 September 1935, pp. 60-61 BNA
Hartlepool Northern Daily Mail,  Wednesday 23 October 1935, p. 1 BNA

Surrey Mirror, Friday 8 November 1935, p. 16 (dog-tooth check) BNA

Liverpool Echo, Monday 18 November 1935, p. 5 (dogtooth) BNA


1936

Liverpool Echo, Wednesday 8 January 1936, p. 11 (*dogtooth checks) BNA

Dundee Evening Telegraph, Thursday 12 March 1936, p. 11 (*dog-tooth checks) BNA
Sussex Agricultural Express, Friday 27 March 1936, p. 17 (*dog-tooth) BNA

Kent & Sussex Courier, Friday 24 April 1936, p. 5 (*dog-tooth checks) BNA
Dundee Courier, Friday 10 July 1936, p. 14 (*dog-tooth check) BNA
Portsmouth Evening News, Thursday 6 August 1936, p. 9 (*dog-tooth check) BNA

Birmingham Daily Gazette, Monday 10 August 1936, p. 8 (*dog-tooth check) BNA
Hull Daily Mail, Wednesday 12 August 1936, p. 7 (*dog-tooth check)  BNA
Dundee Courier, Friday 25 September 1936, p. 5 (*dog-tooth checked) BNA
Yorkshire Post and Leeds Intelligencer, Friday 9 October 1936, p. 15 (*dog-tooth check) BNA
Liverpool Echo, Friday 16 October 1936, p. 11 (*dog-tooth check) BNA

1937

St. Andrews Citizen, Saturday 23 January 1937, p. 3 BNA
Yorkshire Post and Leeds Intelligencer, Friday 23 April 1937, p. 17 (*dog-tooth) BNA
Sunderland Daily Echo and Shipping Gazette, Wednesday 11 August 1937 (*dog-tooth check) BNA  
The Bystander, Wednesday 11 August 1937, p. 37 (dog-tooth ambiguous?) BNA
Wells Journal, Friday 12 November 1937, p. 7 (*dog-tooth check) BNA
Birmingham Daily Gazette, Monday 22 November 1937, p. 8 (*dog-tooth check) BNA

1938

Birmingham Daily Gazette, Tuesday 15 February 1938, p. 8 BNA
Belfast Telegraph (NI), Tuesday 12 April 1938, p. 9 (*dog-tooth) BNA
Yorkshire Evening Post, Friday 22 April 1938, p. 1 (*dog-tooth check) BNA
Birmingham Daily Gazette, Monday 2 May 1938, p. 8 (dog's-tooth check) BNA
The Sketch, Wednesday 6 July 1938, pp. 16- 21 (*dog's-tooth check) BNA
Yorkshire Post and Leeds Intelligencer, Friday 29 July 1938, p. 15 (*dog-tooth checks) BNA
Britannia and Eve, Thursday 1 September 1938, pp. 64-65 (*dog-tooth) BNA
Yorkshire Post and Leeds Intelligencer, Friday 23 September 1938, p. 15 (*dog-tooth check) BNA
? Belfast Telegraph (NI), Wednesday 23 November 1938, p. 10 (*dog-tooth) BNA


1939

Birmingham Daily Gazette, Thursday 2 February 1939, p. 8 (*dog-tooth check) BNA
Yorkshire Post and Leeds Intelligencer, Friday 10 February 1939, p. 15 (*dog-tooth or district check) BNA
Western Mail, Monday 27 March 1939, p. 11 (*dog-tooth checked) BNA
Hull Daily Mail, Friday 14 April 1939, p. 12 (*dog-toothed check) BNA
Illustrated Sporting and Dramatic News, Friday 30 June 1939, p. 45 (*dog's-tooth check) BNA
Yorkshire Post and Leeds Intelligencer, Saturday 2 December 1939, p. 12 (*dog-tooth) BNA

Selected

Winnipeg Free Press Friday, September 5, 1941 (*Dog-tooth checks) (the first Canada reference) NA

Abilene Reporter News Sunday, February 22, 1942 (*Dog tooth checks) NA

Manitowoc Herald Times Tuesday, June 1, 1943 (*Dogtooth checks) NA

Dubuque Telegraph Herald Sunday, October 31, 1943 (*dogtooth checks) NA

Hamilton Daily News Journal Monday, February 21, 1944 (*dogtooth checks) NA

Chester Times Friday, May 26, 1944 (*dogtooth check) NA

Quanah Tribune Chief Thursday, August 10, 1944 (*dog tooth check) NA

Wisconsin Rapids Daily Tribune Thursday, October 5, 1944 (*dogtooth check) NA

Galveston Daily News Sunday, January 2, 1948 (dogstooth check) NA

The Amarillo Globe Tuesday January 4 1949 p. 7 Column (*dogtooth check) NA

The Republican Courier Saturday February 7 1949 p. 6 Column (*dogtooth check) NA

The Republican Courier Saturday February 12 1949 p. 2 Column (*dogtooth check) NA

Daily Express Friday 28 February 1958, p. 9 (*dogtooth) (the first reference to dogtooth in the Daily Express) UKPO

Hammond Times Friday, January 10, 1958 p. B4 16 Column (dogstooth) NA

Ogdensburg Advance News Sunday, May 7, 1961 (dogstooth) NA
Sarasota Herald Tribune Friday, February 12, 1965 (dogstooth) NA
El Paso Herald Post Friday, August 23, 1968 (*dogstooth checks) NA
Anderson Herald Thursday, July 24, 1975 p. 13 (dogstooth) NA



Australia

France

New Zealand

UK

US

Netherlands

Dogtooth

1907

Not Known

1918

1925

1913

Not Known



Observations

Again what is quite surprising, given an assumed UK dogtooth beginning, is that there is no evidence for this at all! Indeed, Australia is the first reference, of 1907, with numerous references, with so many that I lost count, with US in 1913, New Zealand 1918, with the UK 1925. However, given the Australian links to the UK, the term was surely exported, but if so I cannot find it! In the US it is only known as dogtooth, rather than dogstooth, which has no entries at all! The term then really took off in 1914 in, naturally enough, Australia.




3. Specific Instances of the Term ‘Chicken’s Foot’ and Variants

A simple listing of all instances of the specific term, ‘chicken foot’, seemingly derived from French term ‘Pied de Poule’. Note that near relations such as ‘chicken’s foot, ‘chicken-foot’, ‘chicken feet’ (the last rare) are included (but not related terms of the same root, such as ‘pied de poule’, ‘pied de poulet’ etc, of which I compile its own separate listing).

Faux references:

“Chicken-foot" type of fork was realised by Listers

Numerous poultry references.


1893?

Western Mail (Perth, WA) Saturday 5 August 1893 p. 49 Article (chicken’s foot) Tr. (N. B. with reservation)

Patte de Poule - Translates to hens paw

The moment it is not what the dressmakers' jargon styles " genrense." There is an odd
looking new dress material, knewn as "patte de poule," whtoh imitates the scaley skin
of a chicken's foot. It is made in different colours-mauve and green, shades of grey,
beige, and bine. This last is a favourite mixture of OOIOUTB just now. As well as the
shot and ahaded lvelvets, there aro shot and shadsd moirés, Which will be largely used for
trimming« later on in the season.


1897

Macon Republican Friday, May 21, 1897 p. 4 (*chicken foot check) (the first US reference) NA


1910

Washington Post Sunday, June 26, 1910 p. 6 article (*chicken foot check) NA

Winnipeg Tribune Saturday, August 27, 1910 (*chicken foot) (the first Canada reference) NA

Winnipeg Free Press Saturday, August 27, 1910 (*chicken foot) NA

Van Wert Daily Bulletin Friday, September 2, 1910 (*chicken-foot) NA

Washington Post Sunday, October 2, 1910 (*chicken-foot) NA

Washington Democrat Wednesday, October 12, 1910 (*chicken foot-check) NA

London Monitor and New Era Saturday, October 29, 1910 (the first UK reference) (*chicken foot broken check)

Janesville Daily Gazette Wednesday, November 2, 1910 (*chicken foot checks) NA


1911

Frederick Evening Post Saturday, March 18, 1911 (*chicken-foot checks) NA

Telluride Daily Journal Monday, March 20, 1911 (*chicken foot checks) NA

Monroe News Star Thursday, March 23, 1911 (*chicken foot checks) NA

Sandusky Star Journal Wednesday, March 29, 1911 (*chicken foot checks) NA

Philadelphia Inquirer Tuesday, April 4, 1911 (*chicken-foot plaid) NA

Morning Herald Friday, June 2, 1911 (*chicken foot checks) NA

Hagerstown Morning Herald Friday, June 2, 1911 (*chicken foot check?) NA


1912

Hagerstown Morning Herald Wednesday, January 10, 1912 (*chicken foot checks) NA

Washington Post Sunday, February 18, 1912 (*chicken foot) NA

Joplin News Herald Friday, March 1, 1912 (*chicken foot check) NA

Centralia Evening Sentinel Saturday, March 2, 1912 (*chicken foot check) NA

Olean Times Saturday, March 2, 1912 (*chicken foot check?) NA

Medicine Hat News Saturday, March 2, 1912 (*chicken foot check) NA

Dubuque Telegraph Herald Sunday, March 3, 1912 (*chicken foot) NA

Telluride Daily Journal Wednesday, March 6, 1912 (*chicken foot) NA


1914

Syracuse Herald Monday, February 16, 1914 (*chicken foot) NA

East Liverpool Evening Review Thursday, February 19, 1914 (*chicken foot check) NA

Boston Post Thursday, February 26, 1914 (*chicken foot check) NA

Canton Daily News Sunday, March 1, 1914 (*chicken foot check) NA

Chester Times Wednesday, March 11, 1914 (*chicken foot check) NA

Lebanon Daily News Friday, April 3, 1914 (*chicken foot) NA

Philadelphia Inquirer Saturday, April 4, 1914 (*chicken foot checks) NA

Kingston Daily Freeman Wednesday, April 29, 1914 (*chicken foot check) NA

Canton Daily News Sunday, December 6, 1914 (*chicken feet check) (seemingly the first reference to chicken’s feet) NA


1923

The Argus (Melbourne, Vic), Tuesday 31 July 1923, p. 12 Article Illustrated (*chickens foot) Tr.

The Argus (Melbourne, Vic), Wednesday 15 August 1923, p. 21 (*chicken foot) Tr.

The Age (Melbourne, Vic.) Saturday 27 October 1923 p. 17 (*chicken foot) Advert Tr.


1924

The Argus (Melbourne, Vic.) Saturday 26 January 1924 p. 5 (*chicken foot)Tr.

The Age (Melbourne, Vic.) Saturday 26 January 1924 p. 15 (*chicken foot) Tr.

The Argus (Melbourne, Vic.) Saturday 26 July 1924 p. 9 (*chicken foot)Tr.


1926

Examiner (Launceston, Tas.) Saturday 6 November 1926 p. 2 (*chicken’s foot designs) Tr.


1927

The Dubbo Liberal and Macquarie Advocate (NSW) Friday 4 March 1927 p. 7 Tr.

Dundee Courier, Thursday 21 April 1927, p. 1 (chicken’s foot) BNA
The Prahran Telegraph (Vic.) Friday 10 June 1927 p. 7 Tr.


1930

Chronicle (Adelaide, SA) Thursday 1 May 1930 p. 66 Tr.


1932

The Tatler, Wednesday 10 February 1932, pp. 44, 48 (chicken foot) BNA
The Tatler, Wednesday 6 July 1932, pp. 44, 46, 48 (chickens foot) BNA

1933

The Sheffield Daily Independent, Monday 13 March 1933, p. 8 (chicken’s foot) BNA

Santa Cruz Sentinel (US) 14 April 1933 p. 5 CA

Montana Butte Standard Monday, April 17, 1933 (*chickens foot) NA

The Argus (Melbourne, Vic.) Saturday 29 April 1933 p. 9 Tr.

South Haven Daily Tribune Monday, May 1, 1933 column (*chicken foot weave) NA

N.B. The same story appears in short succession in numerous papers, not listed on account of repeats

The Herald (Melbourne, Vic.) Friday 19 May 1933 p. 12 Tr.

News (Adelaide, SA) Saturday 27 May 1933 p. 6 Tr.

The Courier and Advertiser, Monday May 29 1933, p. 12 (chicken’s foot) Tr.

Clare County Cleaver (US) 16 June 1933 p. 3 Tr.

The Advertiser (Adelaide, SA) Thursday 22 June 1933 p. 15 Tr.

The Sun (Sydney, NSW) Friday 23 June 1933 p. 14 Tr.

Bucklin Herald Friday, June 23, 1933, NA

The Argus (Melbourne, Vic.) Tuesday 27 June 1933 p. 3 Tr.

Liverpool Echo, Tuesday 27 June 1933, p. 9 (chicken’s foot) BNA

Wiltshire Times and Trowbridge Advertiser, Saturday 1 July 1933, p. 9 (chicken’s foot) BNA

The Herald (Melbourne, Vic.) Saturday 1 July 1933 p. 8 Tr.

The Sun (Sydney, NSW) Sunday 2 July 1933 p. 9 Tr.

The Herald (Melbourne, Vic.) Saturday 8 July 1933 p. 8 Tr.

The Age (Melbourne, Vic.) Friday 14 July 1933 p. 7 Article Illustrated Tr.

The Advertiser (Adelaide, SA) Monday 17 July 1933 p. 1 Advert Tr.

The Advertiser (Adelaide, SA) Friday 28 July 1933 p. 15 Advert Tr.

Kalgoorlie Miner (WA) Tuesday 1 August 1933 p. 2 Article Tr.

Kalgoorlie Miner (WA) Tuesday 1 August 1933 p. 1 Advert Tr.

Kalgoorlie Miner (WA) Thursday 3 August 1933 p. 1 Advert Tr.

The Herald (Melbourne, Vic.) Thursday 3 August 1933 p. 23 Advert Tr.

The Advertiser (Adelaide, SA) Friday 4 August 1933 p. 24 Advert Tr.

The Australian Women's Weekly  Saturday 5 August 1933 p. 4 Article Tr.

The Argus (Melbourne, Vic.) Saturday 5 August 1933 p. 9 Advert Tr.
The Herald (Melbourne, Vic.) Saturday 5 August 1933 p. 22 Advert Tr.

Western Argus (Kalgoorlie, WA) Tuesday 8 August 1933 p. 7 Article Tr.

Glenelg Guardian (SA ) Wednesday 9 August 1933 p. 2 Advert Tr.

The Brisbane Courier (Qld.) Thursday 10 August 1933 p. 1 Advert Tr.

The Telegraph (Brisbane, Qld.) Thursday 10 August 1933 p. 5 Advert Tr.

The Herald (Melbourne, Vic.) Thursday 10 August 1933 p. 23 Advert Tr.

The Mail (Adelaide, SA) Saturday 12 August 1933 p. 1 Article Illustrated Tr.

The Advertiser (Adelaide, SA) Monday 14 August 1933 p. 1 Advert Tr.

Catholic Freeman's Journal (Sydney, NSW) Thursday 17 August 1933 p. 26 Article Tr.

The Herald (Melbourne, Vic.) Thursday 17 August 1933 p. 29 Advert Tr.

The Sun (Sydney, NSW) Thursday 17 August 1933 p. 23 Advert Tr.

The Advertiser (Adelaide, SA) Thursday 17 August 1933 p. 1 Advert Tr.

News (Adelaide, SA) Thursday 17 August 1933 p. 10 Advert Tr.

The Sun (Sydney, NSW  Thursday 17 August 1933 p. 7 Advert Tr.

The West Wyalong Advocate (NSW) Friday 18 August 1933 p. 3 Advert Tr.

The Advertiser (Adelaide, SA) Friday 18 August 1933 p. 19 Advert Tr.

The Brisbane Courier (Qld.) Monday 21 August 1933 p. 1 Advert Tr.

The Sun (Sydney, NSW) Tuesday 22 August 1933 p. 5 Advert Tr.

The Sun (Sydney, NSW) Thursday 24 August 1933 p. 25 Advert Tr.

Advocate (Burnie, Tas.) Thursday 24 August 1933 p. 5 Article Tr.

The Advertiser (Adelaide, SA) Friday 25 August 1933 p. 15 Advert Tr.

The Labor Daily (Sydney, NSW) Friday 25 August 1933 p. 4 Advert Tr.

The West Wyalong Advocate (NSW) Friday 25 August 1933 p. 3 Advert Tr.

Port Lincoln Times (SA) Friday 25 August 1933 p. 5 Advert Tr.

Folkestone, Hythe, Sandgate & Cheriton Herald, Saturday 26 August 1933, p. 3 (chicken foot)
The Daily News (Perth, WA) Saturday 26 August 1933 p. 19 Article Illustrated Tr.

The Brisbane Courier (Qld.) Monday 28 August 1933 p. 23 Advert Tr.

The Advertiser (Adelaide, SA) Monday 28 August 1933 p. 7 Advert Tr.

The Mercury (Hobart, Tas.) Tuesday 29 August 1933 p. 3 Advert Tr.

The Brisbane Courier (Qld.) Wednesday 30 August 1933 p. 19 Article Illustrated Tr.

The Advertiser (Adelaide, SA) Wednesday 30 August 1933 p. 9 Advert Tr.

Examiner (Launceston, Tas.) Wednesday 30 August 1933 p. 3 Article Illustrated Tr.

The Courier-Mail (Brisbane, Qld.) Wednesday 30 August 1933 p. 19 Article Illustrated Tr.

Table Talk (Melbourne, Vic.) Thursday 31 August 1933 p. 24 Article Illustrated Tr.

The Courier-Mail (Brisbane, Qld.) Thursday 31 August 1933 p. 1 Advert Tr.

The Brisbane Courier (Qld.) Thursday 31 August 1933 p. 1 Advert Tr.

Recorder (Port Pirie, SA) Thursday 31 August 1933 p. 2 Article Tr.

The Advertiser (Adelaide, SA) Monday 4 September 1933 p. 1 Advert Tr.

The Sun (Sydney, NSW) Tuesday 5 September 1933 p. 7 Advert Tr.

The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW) Tuesday 5 September 1933 p. 2 Advert Tr.

Examiner (Launceston, Tas.) Wednesday 6 September 1933 p. 11 Article Illustrated Tr.

News (Adelaide, SA) Wednesday 6 September 1933 p. 8 Article Tr.

The Courier-Mail (Brisbane, Qld.) Wednesday 6 September 1933 p. 22 Article Tr.

The Telegraph (Brisbane, Qld.) Thursday 7 September 1933 p. 6 Article Illustrated Tr.

The Telegraph (Brisbane, Qld.) Thursday 7 September 1933 p. 6 Article Illustrated Tr.

The Herald (Melbourne, Vic.) Thursday 7 September 1933 p. 18 Advert Tr.

The Sun (Sydney, NSW) Thursday 7 September 1933 p. 3 Advert Tr.

The Herald (Melbourne, Vic.) Thursday 7 September 1933 p. 21 Advert Tr.

The Sydney Morning Herald) Friday 8 September 1933 p. 3 Advert Tr.

The Daily News (Perth) Friday 8 September 1933 p. 8 Advert Tr.

The Advertiser (Adelaide, SA) Friday 8 September 1933 p. 13 Advert Tr.

Examiner (Launceston, Tas.) Friday 8 September 1933 p. 13 Article Illustrated Tr.

The West Australian (Perth, WA) Saturday 9 September 1933 p. 1 Advert Tr.

The West Australian (Perth, WA) Monday 11 September 1933 p. 15 Advert Tr.

The Mercury (Hobart, Tas.) Tuesday 12 September 1933 p. 3 Advert Tr.

The Advertiser (Adelaide, SA) Tuesday 12 September 1933 p. 13 Article Tr.

Newcastle Morning Herald and Miners' Advocate (NSW) Tuesday 12 September 1933 p. 1 Advert Tr.

The Sun (Sydney, NSW) Tuesday 12 September 1933 p. 3 Advert Tr.

The Daily Telegraph (Sydney, NSW) Wednesday 13 September 1933 p. 15 Article Illustrated Tr.

Advocate (Burnie, Tas.) Wednesday 13 September 1933 p. 2 Advert Tr.

News (Adelaide, SA) Thursday 14 September 1933 p. 4 Advert Tr.

Wickepin Argus (WA) Thursday 14 September 1933 p. 4 Advert Tr.

Southern Argus (Port Elliot, SA) Thursday 14 September 1933 p. 3 Advert Tr.

Examiner (Launceston, Tas.) Thursday 14 September 1933 p. 10 Article Illustrated Tr.

Examiner (Launceston, Tas.) Thursday 14 September 1933 p. 10 Article Illustrated Tr.

Advocate (Burnie, Tas.) Thursday 14 September 1933 p. 2 Advert Tr.

Examiner (Launceston, Tas.) Thursday 14 September 1933 p. 11 Article Illustrated Tr.

The Sun (Sydney, NSW) Thursday 14 September 1933 p. 3 Advert Tr.


1934

Sunderland Daily Echo and Shipping Gazette, Tuesday 6 February 1934, p. 6 (*chicken’s foot) BNA
Derry Journal (NI), Friday 9 February 1934, p. 11 (*chicken’s foot) BNA
Lichfield Mercury, Friday 9 February 1934, p. 7 (*chicken’s foot) BNA
Daily Herald, Saturday 16 June 1934, p. 6 (*chicken’s foot) BNA


1935

The Tatler, Wednesday 6 March 1935, p. 107 (*chicken-foot plaid) BNA

1939

Bristol Evening Post, Wednesday 8 February 1939, p. 3 (*chicken-foot) BNA


Selected, beyond the date range above

None so far.


Faux/Queried Notes

Sikeston Standard Tuesday, September 2, 1930 p. 1 (chickens foot?) the snippet given, although indeed in the context of fashion, does not correlate to the page, where chicken foot in used in another sense! NA



Australia

France

New Zealand

UK

USA

Netherlands

Chicken’s Foot

1923

Not Known

1933

1927

1897

Not Known




Observations

Again what is quite surprising, given an assumed UK beginning, is that there is no evidence for this at all! Indeed, Australia is once again the first reference, of 1893 (with reservation) or more definitely of 1923, with numerous references, US of 1897, Canada and UK of 1910. Further, noticable is the sheer extent of the Australian references, which abound, much more so than other countries.



4. Specific Instances of the (French) Term ‘Pied de Poule’ and Variants

A simple listing of all instances of the specific (French) term ‘pied de poule’ and variants. Note that near relations with gaps and apostrophes of the word such as ‘Pied-de-Poule’, ‘Pied de Poulet’, ‘Pied de Coq’, ‘Pieds de Poule’ are included (but not related English translated terms such as ‘chicken’s foot’, ‘hen’s foot’ etc, of which I compile its own separate listing).


Western Mail (Perth, WA) Saturday 5 August 1893 p. 49 Article (*Patte de Poule) Tr.

N.B. As such, I have reservations as to this entry, despite it appearing in a fashion/fabric context. First, rather than the more usual ‘pied de poule’ it’s ‘patte de poule’ (chicken’s paw). This is the only such terminology, although there is indeed one other reference, but not in fashion/fabric. Second, it’s such an outlier of Australia in particular as regards pied de poule, with the next 1930. What to make of it? Third, the term, being French, must surely have begun in France.

Le Monde Artiste 14 August 1894, p. 461 (*patte de poule) Gall.

En damier noir et blanc, patte de poule, garnie de moire noire, un robe sera charmante

Checkerboard black and white, hen's paws, topped with black moire a dress will be charming


1894

Le Journal 16 June 1894 (the first French reference) Gall.

Journal de Fourmies (from 1876-1939). 21 June 1894 p. 3  (N.B. The only reference in this newspaper) Gall.

Het Nieuws van den dag van Maandag 8 October 1894, p. 20 (first Netherlands reference) De.

Le Petit Troyen 20 October 1894 Gall.

Het Nieuws van den dag van Maandag 22 October 1894, p. 20 De.

Het Nieuws van den dag van Maandag 12 November 1894, p. ? De.

Het Nieuws van den dag van Maandag 3 December 1894, p. ? De.

Het Nieuws van den dag van Maandag 17 December 1894, p. ? De.


1895

Le Rappel 2 June 1895 p. 3 (*pieds de poule) Gall.


1896

Les Annales Politiques et Littéraires 9 August 1896 Gall.


1897

Galveston Daily News Sunday, February 21, 1897 p. 8 (*Pied de Poule) (the first US reference) NA

The Raleigh Daily Tribune Tuesday, March 2, 1897 p. 5 VERIFY NA

News and Observer Friday March 5 1897 p. 8 (*Pied de Poule) Ne VERIFY NA


1898

La Gazette Algérienne. 16 July 1898 p. 2 (the only instance of this paper) Gall.


1901

Bulletin de la Société archéologique du Midi de la France (1869-1974) 19 November 1901 Gall.

The same advert also appears in 25 November 1901


1902

Bulletin de la Société archéologique du Midi de la France 25 November 1902 Gall.


1906

Daily Telegraph & Courier (London), Saturday 29 September 1906, pp. 4-5 (*pied de poule) (the first UK reference) BNA
The Pensacola Journal (US) 25 November 1906 p. 12 NA
The Salt Lake Herald (US) 25 November 1906 p. 31 NA


1910

Textile Review April 1910 p. 21 (pieds de poule) Gall.

Arnhemsche Courant 2 April 1910 De.

Le Matin 10 April 1910 (*pied de poule) Gall.

Le Radical (Paris began 1881) 24 April 1910 (the first of only two references in this paper) Gall.

Comoedia (Paris, began 1907) 24 April 1910 p. 5 (the first of many references in this paper) Gall.

La Lanterne 25 April 1910 (the first and only reference in this paper) Gall.

Gil Blas 1 May 1910 p. 4 (Four references in this paper) Gall.

Le Radical (Paris began 1881) 1 May 1910 p. 8 (*pied de poule)

Figaro 1910 1 May (1854-) p. 8 (the first of 38 references in this paper) Gall.

A Gazette de Château-Gontier  5 May 1910  (the first of only two references in this paper) Gall.

Helena Independent Record Sunday, August 21, 1910 p. 11 Column NA (*pied de poule) N.B. the same column appears in eight other papers NA

St Johns Evening Telegram Tuesday, August 23, 1910 (*pied de poule) (the first Canadian reference) NA

The Enterprise 15 September 1910 p. 7

Record Journal of Douglas 16 September 1910

South Haven Daily Tribune Monday, September 19, 1910 (*pied de poule) NA

Barbour County Index 21 September 1910 p. 3

The Columbus Journal (US) 21 September 1910 p. 6

Delphos Daily Herald Monday, September 26, 1910 (*pied de poule) NA

Oelwein Daily Register Monday, September 26, 1910 (*pied de poule) NA

San Antonio Light and Gazette Wednesday, September 28, 1910 (*pied de poule) NA

Goshen Daily Democrat Thursday, September 29, 1910 (*pied de poule) NA

Le Matin (Paris began 1884) 4 October 1910 p. 6 (the first of 73 references from this paper) Gall.

The Palco News Thursday, October 6, 1910 p. 4 (*pied de poule) Ne

Hope Penasco Valley Press Friday, October 14, 1910 NA (*pied de poule)

Winnipeg Free Press Saturday, October 15, 1910 (*pied de poule) NA

Lincoln County Leader (US) 28 October 1910 p. 2

Creston Review Friday, November 4, 1910 (Canada) (*pied de poule) NA


1911

Logansport Reporter Monday, May 8, 1911 NA


1912

Le XIXe siècle, 10 June 1912, p. 3 Gall.

Le XIXe siècle, 21 June 1912, p. 3 Gall.

Le XIXe siècle, 28 June 1912, p. 3 Gall.

L'Action Française  26 May 1912 p. 3 (*patte de poule) Gall.

1932 Faux? calleuse et noir comme une patte de poule callous and black like a hen's paw


1913

The San Francisco Call. 10 April 1913 p. 16


1914

Philadelphia Inquirer Monday, February 2, 1914 NA

Syracuse Herald Monday, February 16, 1914 NA


1926

The Annals of Politics and Literature: 21 March 1926 Gall.

Femina, March 1926 p. 28  (the first reference in Femina) (*pied de poule) Gall.

Britannia and Eve, Wednesday 16 June 1926, p. 20 (*pied de poule) BNA

Bredasche Courant 19 June 1926 De.

Oor Vroven en Huis 25 June 1926 De.

The New York Times Aug. 1, 1926 (the first reference in NYT). NYT VERIFY

Rotterdamsch newspaper 3 September 1926 De.

Femina, August,1926  p. 99 (*pied de poule) Gall.  


1928

Femina, pp. 140, 366, 400 (*pied de poule) Gall.


1929

Femina, p. 229 Gall.


1930

Chronicle (Adelaide, SA) Thursday 1 May 1930 p. 66 Article (the first Australian reference) Tr.


1931

Femina, March, p. 103 Gall.

Le Journal, 16 June, 1931, p. 4 Gall.


1932

January, p. 87

L'Intransigeant 1932 Faux? calleuse et noir comme une patte de poule = callous and black like a hen's paw


1933

News (Adelaide, SA) Saturday 27 May 1933 p. 6 Article Tr.

The West Australian (Perth, WA) Tuesday 6 June 1933 p. 4 Article Illustrated Tr.

Coventry Evening Telegraph, Monday 12 June 1933, pp. 2-3 (*pied-de-poule) BNA
The Brisbane Courier (Qld.) Thursday 3 August 1933 p. 1 Advert Tr.

Queensland Figaro (Brisbane, Qld.) Saturday 5 August 1933 p. 13 Article Illustrated Tr.

Northern Star (Lismore, NSW) Wednesday 16 August 1933 p. 12 Advert Tr.

The Brisbane Courier (Qld.) Saturday 19 August 1933 p. 1 Advert Tr.

The Brisbane Courier (Qld.) Monday 21 August 1933 p. 1 Advert Tr.

The Brisbane Courier (Qld.) Friday 25 August 1933 p. 1 Advert Tr.

The Daily News (Perth, WA) Saturday 26 August 1933 p. 19 Article Illustrated (pied de poulet)Tr.

The Age (Melbourne, Vic.) Friday 1 September 1933 p. 7 Article Illustrated Tr.

Truth (Brisbane, Qld.) Sunday 3 September 1933 p. 19 Advert Tr.

The Courier-Mail (Brisbane, Qld.) Tuesday 5 September 1933 p. 1 Advert Tr.

The Telegraph (Brisbane, Qld.) Wednesday 6 September 1933 p. 5 Advert Tr.

Western Mail (Perth, WA) Thursday 21 September 1933 p. 26 Article Tr.

Western Mail (Perth, WA) Thursday 21 September 1933 p. 28 Article Tr.

The West Australian (Perth, WA) Friday 22 September 1933 p. 7 Article Tr.

The Daily News (Perth, WA) Tuesday 10 October 1933 p. 9 Article Illustrated Tr.

Femina, p. 18 Gall.

Femina, p. 30 Gall.


1934

The Advertiser (Adelaide, SA) Monday 1 January 1934 p. 7 Advert Tr.

Liverpool Echo, Friday 2 February 1934, pp. 9-10 (*pied-de-poule) BNA

Belfast Telegraph (NI), Friday 2 February 1934, p.10 (*pied-de-poule) BNA

The Telegraph (Brisbane, Qld.) Saturday 3 February 1934 p. 4 Article (pied de poulet) Tr.

The Telegraph (Brisbane, Qld.) Tuesday 6 March 1934 p. 6 Article Illustrated Tr.

The Week (Brisbane, Qld.) Wednesday 14 March 1934 p. 6 Article Illustrated Tr.

Femina, p. 14 Gall.


1935

Liverpool Echo, Thursday 24 October 1935, p. 12 (*pied-de-poule) BNA

Femina, April, p. 22 Gall.

Femina, June, p. 31 Gall.

Femina, September, p. 33 Gall.

Femina, December, p. 106 Gall

The Telegraph (Brisbane, Qld) Tuesday 17 December 1935 p. 19 Article Tr.


1936

The Age (Melbourne, Vic.) Wednesday 18 November 1936 p. 19 Article Illustrated Tr.


1937

Femina, April, p. 22 Gall.

Femina, May, p. 20 Gall.

Femina, July, p. 96 Gall.

Femina, September, p. 25 Gall.


1938
Femina, March, pp. 34, 36-37 (*pied de poule, 3) ( Reference to Scotland) Gall.

Liverpool Echo, Wednesday 14 September 1938, pp. 9-10 BNA
Femina, March, p. 78 Gall.

Femina, December, p. 74 Gall.

Examine (Launceston, Tas) Wednesday 31 August 1938 p 7 Article Illustrated Tr.

The Irvington Gazette 1 September 1938 p. 4

The Telegraph (Brisbane, Qld) Tuesday 13 September 1938 p 19 Article Illustrated Tr.


1939

Evening Despatch, Friday 3 February 1939, p. 10 BNA

Belfast Telegraph (NI), Friday 24 February 1939, p. 14 (*pied-de-poule checks) BNA

Evening Despatch, Friday 14 July 1939, p. 14 (*pied-de-poule checked) BNA


Selected, beyond the date range above


1973

The Guardian April 10 1973 p. 13 (*pied-de-poule) (the first (and only!) reference in The Guardian Ne.



Australia

France

New Zealand

UK

USA

Netherlands

Pied de Poule

1885?

1930

1894

1933

1906

1897

1894


Observations

Again, all quite surprising! The first reference, given the French expression, perhaps not unsurprisingly is that from France, but what is noteworthy is the early date of the references, beginning 1894, and perhaps even earlier! At face value, France began houndstooth under this name (pied de poule)! But how can this be so? It does not make sense. Interestingly, in other countries it also appears early, with the US 1897, UK 1906. Oddly, it first appeared in Australia as late as 1930!

The term is little used in the US, despite an early appearance. Another oddity is the occasional references to Scotland, in which credit is given to this country as the source, albeit if so, I cannot find this in UK or Scotland papers!




5. Specific Instances of the Term ‘Puppytooth’ and Variants

A simple listing of all instances of the specific term ‘puppytooth’ and variants with spaces and apostrophes, such as puppy tooth, puppy-tooth etc.


1951

The Herald (Melbourne, Vic.) Thursday 25 January 1951 p. 17 Article (*puppy-tooth check) (the first Australian reference) Tr.

Adelaide Advertiser Friday, January 26, 1951,

Examiner (Launceston, Tas.) Wednesday 14 March 1951 p. 13 Article Illustrated (*puppytooth check) Tr.

The Herald (Melbourne, Vic.) Thursday 24 May 1951 p. 12 Article Illustrated (*puppy-tooth check) Tr.

Daily Mirror Tuesday 6 November 1951 p. 6 (puppy tooth) (the first UK reference) BNA
Worthing Gazette Wednesday 7 November 1951 Illustrated p. 4 (*puppy-tooth check) BNA


1952

The Advertiser (Adelaide, SA) Friday 11 January 1952 p. 11 Article (*puppytooth check) Tr.

The Sketch Wednesday 12 March 1952 Illustrated pp: 43-50 (*puppy-tooth check) BNA

The Advertiser (Adelaide, SA) Tuesday 5 August 1952 p. 6 Advertising (*puppy-tooth checks) Tr.

The Herald (Melbourne, Vic.) Monday 18 August 1952 p. 9 Article Illustrated (*puppytooth check) Tr.

Daily Mercury (Mackay, Qld.) Saturday 30 August 1952 p. 11 Article Illustrated (*puppytooth check) Tr.

The Armidale Express and New England General Advertiser (NSW) Monday 1 September 1952 p. 3 Article Illustrated (*puppytooth check) Tr.

Burra Record (SA) Tuesday 2 September 1952 p. 6 Article Illustrated (*puppytooth check) Tr.

Goulburn Evening Post (NSW) Wednesday 3 September 1952 p. 6 Article Illustrated (*puppytooth check) Tr.

The Dubbo Liberal and Macquarie Advocate (NSW) Thursday 4 September 1952 p. 4 Article Illustrated (*puppytooth check) Tr.

Daily Examiner (Grafton, NSW) Friday 5 September 1952 p. 5 Article Illustrated (*puppytooth check) Tr.

Daily Advertiser (Wagga Wagga, NSW) Monday 8 September 1952 p. 2 Article Illustrated (*puppytooth check) Tr.

The Advertiser (Adelaide, SA) Tuesday 9 September 1952 p. 13 Article (*puppytooth navy and white check) Tr.

The Horsham Times (Vic.) Friday 12 September 1952 p. 2 Article Illustrated (*puppytooth check) Tr.

Maryborough Chronicle (Qld.) Monday 29 September 1952 p. 4 Article Illustrated (*puppytooth check) Tr.

The Argus (Melbourne, Vic.) Saturday 8 November 1952 p. 7 Advertising (*puppy-tooth check) Tr.

Coventry Evening Telegraph Thursday 13 November 1952 Article p. 7 (*puppy-tooth design) BNA

Illawarra Daily Mercury (Wollongong, NSW) Thursday 27 November 1952 p. 13 Article Illustrated (*puppytooth check) Tr.


1953

Northern Whig (Northern Ireland) Wednesday 14 January 1953 Article p. 2 (*puppy-tooth check) BNA
The Advertiser (Adelaide, SA) Monday 6 April 1953 p. 5 Advertising (*PuppyTooth checks) Tr.


1954

The Courier-Mail (Brisbane, Qld.) Tuesday 25 May 1954 p. 11 Article Illustrated (*puppytooth) Tr.

Border Watch (Mount Gambier, SA) Thursday 10 June 1954 p. 9 Advertising (*puppytooth checks) Tr.


1955

Yass Tribune-Courier (NSW) Monday 4 April 1955 p. 2 Advertising (*puppytooth) Tr.

Western Mail Thursday 9 June 1955 Illustrated p. 6 (*puppy-tooth check) BNA

1956

Birmingham Daily Post Monday 22 October 1956  Illustrated p. 7 (*puppy-tooth checks) BNA

1957

Northern Whig (Northern Ireland) Tuesday 5 March 1957 Illustrated p. 2 (*puppytooth) BNA
Winnipeg Free Press Friday, March 29, 1957 (puppy tooth) (the first Canadian reference) NA

1958

Liverpool Echo Tuesday 4 February 1958 Article pp. 9, 21(*puppy-tooth checks) BNA
Liverpool Echo Friday 25 July 1958 Article p. 1 (*puppytooth check) BNA

Winnipeg Free Press Friday, 25 July, 1958 (puppy-tooth check) Column  (Princess Margaret wore) NA

1959

Liverpool Echo Monday 28 September 1959  Illustrated p. 6 (*puppy-tooth check) BNA
Daily Express Tuesday 10 Mar 1959, p. 2 UKPO (the first reference in the Daily Express) BNA


1960

Winnipeg Free Press Friday, May 7, 1960 (*puppy-tooth checks) Column) NA
Liverpool Echo Wednesday 6 July 1960 Article p. 4 (*puppy-tooth checks) BNA

Taunton Courier, and Western Advertiser Saturday 3 September 1960 Advert (*puppytooth check) BNA

1961

The Biz (Fairfield, NSW.) Wednesday 13 December 1961 p. 3 Advertising (*puppytooth checks)  Tr.

Parrametta Cumberland Argus Wednesday March 1 1961 p. 2 Advert (*puppy tooth check slacks) NA


1962

Winnipeg Free Press Friday, Thursday August 16, 1962 (*puppy-tooth) (Column) NA

1964

Corpus Christi Times Tuesday, March 24, 1964 (*puppy tooth) (the first US reference) NA
Bristol Daily Courier (US, not UK) Wednesday, May 27, 1964 Advert (*puppy tooth) NA
Liverpool Echo Wednesday 8 July 1964 Article p. 4 (*puppytooth) BNA

Liverpool Echo Wednesday 8 July 1964 Article p. 26 (*puppy-tooth check) NA

Selected, beyond the date range above

Mount Carmel Daily Republican Register Wednesday, April 16, 1980 p. 17 (*puppytooth checks) NA
Kingston Gleaner Monday, November 5, 1990 (the first Jamaica reference) NA

Syracuse Herald Journal Thursday, December 1, 1988 NA



Australia

France

New Zealand

UK

USA

Netherlands

Puppytooth

1951

Not Known

Not Known

1951

1964

Not Known



Observations

As can be seen, puppytooth (said to be the same but smaller in scale to houndstooth, although to what degree is typically not made clear) is a latter-day description, first recorded in 1951 in Australia and the UK. The term is little used in the US, of just four distinct references, with the first appearance in 1964.




6. Specific Instances of the Term ‘Pepita’ and Variants

A simple listing of all instances of the specific term ‘pepita check’ and variants of the word such as ‘pepita checks’ and ‘checked pepita’. Possibly the term is more prevalent than otherwise shown. Searching is only practical in conjunction with the word ‘check’; searching by ‘pepita’ alone brings up too many unrelated entries to survey! Another possibility is to add likely clothing terms, such as Pepita dresses, for instance.

Faux references include the singer, off course, and sauce


1889?

Del Norte San Juan Prospector Saturday, August 31, 1889 (*pepita dress stripe) NA

As such, I have considerable reservations as to this entry, on various counts, despite it seemingly appearing in a fashion/fabric context. First, it’s such an outlier of the term as regards pepita, with the next no less twenty-six years later, of 1915! Second, it has a stripe context; there are no known references to such a presentation. That said, it does indeed appear in a US paper, of which the next references are indeed from. Certainly, from the context and US connection, it is plausible, although doubts remain. What to make of it? I hold judgement.


1915

Evening Times-Republican, April 9, 1915 (Checked Pepita) (the first reference in the US) CA

Boston Post Thursday, May 6, 1915 p. 7 (*Pepita Checks) NA

Boston Post Friday, May 7, 1915 p.7 (*small Pepita checks and *pepita checks) NA


1916

Boston Post Friday, April 28, 1916 p. 13 (Pepita Checks) NA

Boston Post Thursday, August 10 1916 (Pepita Checks) NA


1917

Boston Sunday Globe Sunday, January 7, 1917 p. 39 (*pepita checks) NA


1921?

The Brisbane Courier (Qld.) Saturday 30 July 1921 p. 13 Advertising. (black pepita) Tr.

N.B. I am uncertain that the reference is to pepita. The legiblity is not the best; it may be referring to ‘poplin’ rather than pepita.


1934

Brisbane Telegraph Saturday, September 1, 1934 p. 15 article, illustrated  (*A checked pepita dress) NA

Brisbane Telegraph Saturday, October 11, 1934 p.18 (*Smart Pepita dress) NA

Brisbane Telegraph Saturday, October 31, 1934 p. 16 (*Smart Pepita dress) NA


1936

Brisbane Telegraph Monday, January 27, 1936 NA


1947

The Riverine Herald (Echuca, Vic.) Saturday 22 March 1947 p. 2 Article Illustrated (Pepita Check) (the first confirmed reference in Australia; see 1921 for possible earlier reference) Tr.


1949

Launceston Examiner Tuesday, March 22, 1949 (Pepita Check) N.B. refers to a Germany exhibit, stating pepita is out of date! Tr. and NA

Gisborne Herald 16 April 1949 (Pepita Check) (the first and only reference in the Papers Past archive) N.B. refers to a Germany exhibit. PP


1950

The Mercury (Hobart, Tas.) Tuesday 18 July 1950 p. 9 Article Illustrated (Pepita Check) Tr.


1958

Arizona Daily Sun Wednesday, May 7, 1958, p. 5 advert, illustrated (*rayon pepita check) NA

Morgantown Dominion News Wednesday, June 11, 1958 p. 5 advert, illustrated (*rayon pepita check) NA


1960

Aberdeen Evening Express Monday 29 February 1960 (Pepita Check) (the first reference in the UK) BNA
Birmingham Daily Post Friday 25 March 1960 (Pepita Check) BNA
Coventry Evening Telegraph Friday 27 May 1960 (Pepita Check) BNA
Daily Express Monday 3 Oct 1960, p. 16 (Pepita Check) UKPO


1961

Taunton Courier, and Western Advertiser Saturday 18 March 1961 (Pepita Check) BNA
Taunton Courier, and Western Advertiser Saturday 25 March 1961 (Pepita Checks) BNA

Liverpool Echo Friday 3 November 1961 (Pepita Checks) BNA

Coventry Evening Telegraph Friday 3 November 1961 (Pepita Checks) BNA

1964

Daily Mirror Wednesday 4 March 1964 (Pepita Check)

1966

De Telegraaf 15 October 1966 Advert. (Pepita Checks) (the first and only distinct reference in the Delpher archive) De.

De Telegraaf 10 December 1966 Advert (Pepita Checks) De.


(all checked for exact term)


Inadvertently Misleading

Oakland Tribune Wednesday, December 31, 1902 (Pepita dresses) NOT fabric context NA


Table


Australia

France

New Zealand

UK

USA

Netherlands

Pepita

1921?

Not Known

1949

1960

1915

1966


Observations

Of note here is the relative scarcity of the term Pepita. Indeed, there are very few references to the term, with some countries having just one or two references. Possibly there are many more still to be unearthed, but it is difficult/inconvenient finding them! There again, this may indeed be all there is; it is hard to say for sure. When searched for, pepita shows up (surprisingly for such a obscure term) in a myriad of ways; the BNA alone gives 20,000 entries! It is impractical to survey such a large number. However, adding the word ‘check/s’ greatly reduces the above, and of relevancy too. Indeed, although I am sure that there must be references to the single word in the context of fabric/design, it was not found, at least of an initial look. Therefore, I am thus a little wary of this listing as being anywhere near exhaustive, in contrast to others (such as houndstooth). But it is still good….

Background matters aside, the first reference is of the US, of 1915 which is perhaps somewhat surprising! The next reference, many years later, is of Australia, 1947 (albeit possibly there is a earlier 1921 reference), with New Zealand 1949, before, perhaps surprisingly late, the UK, of 1960, and Netherlands, 1966. It is not known in France.


Part 2 Table

For an at-a-glance view of the data, below I show a Part 2 table of the first instance in print of each of the terms, of the six main countries, namely Australia, France, New Zealand, Netherlands (to a much lesser extent), UK and USA at the beginnings of houndstooth, dogtooth, chicken’s foot, pied de poule and puppytooth and pepita. This is then followed by a discussion of the findings.



Australia

France

New Zealand

UK

USA

Netherlands

Dogtooth

1907

Not Known

1918

1927/1929

1913

Not Known

Chicken’s Foot

1923

Not Known

1933

1927

1910

Not Known

Pied de Poule

1930

1894

1933

1906

1897

1894

Puppytooth

1951

Not Known

Not Known

1951

1964

Not Known

Pepita

1947

Not Known

1949

1960

1915

1966


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