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Book/Article/Web References


For general interest, below I compile, generally with annotations, various book, article and web page references of interest on houndstooth and variant names and related topics of interest. Note that not by any means is this to be considered as an all-encompassing, exhaustive account. 

1. Books

Note that not all of these books have been seen, never mind purchased; there are only so many hours in the day! In the fullness of time, I may indeed purposefully pursue some of the more notable references here. In short, dedicated books (and articles too) on houndstooth are, perhaps surprisingly, conspicuous by their absence. This being so, where houndstooth is indeed discussed, this typically appears as an aside. Note that the books differ in importance. Some, although desirable, are not strictly necessary in relation to houndstooth. For instance with Christian Dior, although central to the story, with a one- or two-page reference, and typically of an expensive book, it is judged uneconomic to pursue. Use is made of Google Books, which typically serve the purpose, or at least act as a beginning pending the book being obtained.

Black, Mary E. the sett and weaving of Tartans. Lily Mills Co, 1959 PDF
Despite the title, has much on houndstooth-related matters, notably with the Shepherd's Check. Very nice.

de Rethy, Esmeralda. Christian Dior: The Early Years 1947-1957. Harry N. Abrams, 2001 Google Books
Dior houndstooth references: pp. 112, 116

Dunbar, John Telfer: The Costume of Scotland. London: Batsford, 1984, paperback 1989 NOT SEEN
Oft quoted book.

Harrison, E. P. Scottish Estate TweedsJohnstons of Elgin, First Edition, 1995 NOT SEEN
Undoubtedly of the utmost importance.

Jenkins, David (editor). The Cambridge History Of Western Textiles. Cambridge University Press, 2003 NOT SEEN
1,191 pages. A major (and costly!) reference work. Especially see pp. 68, 96-97, on a 3 AD century spin-patterned wool twill from Donbaek, Denmark


Jones, Owen.  Grammar of Ornament. Bernard Quaritch. 1868, p. 15
Of note is a houndstooth pattern, p. 15, of plaited straw from the Sandwich Islands. Lockwood and Macmillan in Geometric Symmetry, p. 90, refers to this, although not referenced directly.

Keenan, Brigid. Dior in VogueRandom House Value Pub. 1983 NOT SEEN

Lockwood, E. H. and R. H. Macmillan. 
Geometric Symmetry. Cambridge University Press, 1978.

Shows a houndstooth design p. 90 (on a small piece on making automatic reproductions), and of which although claiming to be from the Sandwich Islands (clearly derived from Owen Jones' account, with plaited straw) is not strictly so. Rather, for unclear reasons, this is a variation, indeed interesting in itself, but is not directly based on the Jones diagram.
O'Neil, Helen. David Jones: 175 yearsEDS Publications Ltd. 2013 NOT SEEN
On the Australian store David Jones, who have branded their logo and products with houndstooth.

Pochna, Marie France. Christian Dior: The Man who Made the World Look New.  New York: Arcade Pub. 1966 Google Books
Dior houndstooth references pp. 62, 109, 123.

Snodgrass, Mary Ellen. World Clothing and Fashion: An Encyclopedia of History, Culture, and Social Influence. Sharpe, 2014
Dior houndstooth references: pp. 189 (Cafe Anglais reference), 332.

Stephenson, C.  and F. Suddards. A Text Book Dealing With Ornamental Design For Woven Fabrics. First edition 1897, Methuen & Co. Ltd and Fourth Edition. Methuen & Co. Ltd 1924. N.B. Not seen the first edition but I have the fourth edition as a PDF. (March 2019, PDF)

Very much in the Lewis Day tradition, from a weave perspective. Of most note is p. 16, of Plate III, Fig. 9, of a houndstooth (but not stated as such) in black and white as an counterchange design, and further not as a weave but of the tessellation type. I presume that this is also in the first edition.


Wade, David. Geometric Patterns & Borders. Wildwood House Ltd. 1982

Houndstooth is shown as a black and white line drawing, fig. 260 (oddly, there no page numbers in the book). This is simply captioned ‘Hawaii’ without any more details forthcoming, which is in line with the book; the 600-line drawings are sourced from various cultures around the world, all of the same sparse detail as to origin. Likely, given the caption, this is sourced from Owen Jones’ Grammar of Ornament, with p. 15 bearing the same reference (there is no bibliography). However, the drawings slightly differ; Jones is of a square-based, and Wade isometric-based.

Simply stated, a geometric pattern book, with line drawings from various cultures around the world. Text is purposefully kept to a minimum at the beginning of the book. Has many interesting designs.


On Christian Dior Specifically:

de Rethy, Esmeralda. Christian Dior: The Early Years 1947-1957 Harry N. Abrams, 2001 Google Books
Houndstooth references: pp. 112, 116 Keenan, Brigid. Dior in Vogue. Random House Value Pub., 1983 Pochna, Marie France. Christian Dior: The Man who Made the World Look New  New York: Arcade Pub. 1966 Google Books Houndstooth references pp. 62, 109, 123. Snodgrass, Mary Ellen. World Clothing and Fashion: An Encyclopedia of History, Culture, and Social Influence. Sharpe, 2014 Houndstooth references: pp. 189 (Cafe Anglais reference), 332.


2. Articles

Feijs, Loe M.G. ‘Geometry and Computation of Houndstooth (Pied-de-Poule)’. In Robert Bosch, Reza Sarhangi & Douglas McKenna (eds) Proceedings of Bridges Towson Conference 2012, Mathematics, Music, Art, Architecture, Culture. 299-306
First, beginning in 2012, and continuing to the present day (2018), Loe Feijs, of TUE university, has written a series of articles on Houndstooth/Pied-de-poule, for successive Bridges conferences. Each article is broadly a combination of popular and scholarly accounts, and at times he uses his superior mathematical ability to write somewhat technically, far beyond my understanding. Be that as it may, these can be considered as a must read, and they leave writings by others far in the shade.
A most pleasing discussion, although technical in places, but still largely popular, with some pleasing innovations, such as the houndstooth appearing in different orientations. Much mention of Heesch and Keinzle. 

Feijs, Loe M. G. and Marina Toeters. ‘Constructing and Applying the Fractal Pied de Poule (Houndstooth)’. In Proceedings of Bridges 2013, 429-432
A most pleasing discussion of a fractal premise, although somewhat technical in places.

Feijs, Loe M. G., Marina Toeters, Jun Hu and Jihong Liu. ‘Design of a Nature-like Fractal Celebrating Warp-knitting’. Proceedings of Bridges Conference 2014, Mathematics, Music, Art, Architecture, Culture. 369-371
On warp knitting, rather than pied de poule, which is not mentioned. Of no real interest.

Feijs, Loe M. G. and Marina Toeters. ‘A Novel Line Fractal Pied de Poule (Houndstooth)’
Bridges 2015 Conference Proceedings
In short, houndstooth as a line fractal. Somewhat advanced in nature. 

Feijs, Loe M. G. and Marina Toeters. ‘Pied de Pulse: Packing Embroidered Circles and Coil Actuators in Pied de Poule (Houndstooth)’. Bridges Finland Conference Proceedings, 2016 415-418
In short, houndstooth as circles packing. Somewhat advanced in nature.

Feijs, Loe M. G. and Marina Toeters. ‘A Cellular Automaton for Pied-de-Poule (Houndstooth)’. Proceedings of Bridges 2017, Mathematics, Art, Music, Architecture, Education, Culture. pp. 403-406. Tessellations Publishing, Phoenix, Arizona
In short, houndstooth as cellular automatons. Somewhat advanced in nature.

Gibbs, William. ‘Paper Patterns 4 – Paper Weaving’. Mathematics in School. November 1990, pp. 16-19
Of note is the erroneous reference here to the tiling Fig. 4, titled as ‘Shepherd's Check’.

-  ‘Three Directional Weaving’. Mathematics in School. March 1992, pp. 2-4. 

Of general interest.


Jakobsson, Josefine Gennert. 'Who's tooth? Houndstooth!'

http://www.diva-portal.org/smash/get/diva2:1237046/FULLTEXT01.pdf

A very nice paper indeed, of considerable depth (81 pages), liberally illustrated with photographs with a slant towards fashion application and weaving (and more), by Josefine Gennert Jakobsson, with a BA in fashion design, of the University of Borås The Swedish School of Textiles.


N. B. On Loe Feijs:

All papers are freely and conveniently available at the Bridges Math Art paper repository; simply put in ‘Feijs’ in the search box:

https://archive.bridgesmathart.org/search.py?search



3. Web

For convenience, I list various themes. 

History Matters

Artesia Rose
Lightweight, nothing original.

Kerry Hayes

Anon. Polka Dot France
History from the beginning, from an anonymous French writer to present day. Relatively brief, but pleasing.

Prince of Wales Check
A brief history of the Prince of Wales Check by Paul Grassert, a French tailor. Text not sourced.  His own research? Doubtful.

Pied de Poule
History of the Rooster symbolism

Harris Tweed
Harris Tweed Adverts (from 1935, although not generally dated, or indeed discussed).

Industrie Museum


Porsche 

Escher-McQueen

Priscilla Chung
A very nice, all round article.

Doug Blumeyer
The page gives links to all:
Some outstanding, original work in the field.

Schiaparelli

Bear Bryant and Houndstooth
http://bryantmuseum.com/ (can't find on site)

Dorothy Draper

Coco Chanel

Drawing Variations
Henri Jacobs (houndstooth)

Checks
A general guide to various types of checks.

Shepherd's Plaid/Maud

General

Glen Check

This would be a nice site if only (a) it would print out without distortion and (b) remove the seemingly numerous adverts!

Anti-Houndstooth

http://anti-houndstooth.blogspot.com/2010/

‘Anti-Houndstooth’ (name unknown) writes extensively on houndstooth although from a rather negative point of view; not from a love of the design but rather of a dislike! Here he/she catalogs various houndstooth ‘crimes’ by its extensive appearance!

 

https://kknews.cc/fashion/33p9xba.html

In Japanese.


Created 10 January under 'Web Pages of Interest'. Renamed 6 March 2019, in effect a renaming and reordering of a page that expanded somewhat to include books and articles and that had so thus become misnamed, hence the now more accurate description.


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