Under Construction For general interest, below I compile, with annotations, various web pages of interest on houndstooth and variant names. History Matters The History of Houndstooth by Artesia Rose Lightweight, nothing original Lightweight Gives sources Polka Dot France https://www.polkadot.fr/content/19-motif-pied-de-poule History from the beginning, from an anonymous French writer to present day. Relatively brief, but pleasing. Prince of Wales Check A brief history of the Prince of Wales Check by Paul Grassert, a French tailor. Text not sourced. His own research? Doubtful. History of the Rooster symbolism http://espritbleu.franceolympique.com/espritbleu/actus/4578-du-roi-au-peuple-histoire-du-coq-gaulois.html Harris Tweed Harris Tweed Adverts (from 1935, although not generally dated, or indeed discussed). Industrie Museum Fashion Many history pictures of woman, some famous, in houndstooth https://www.pinterest.co.uk/vintagesandshoe/vintage-houndstooth-fashion/?lp=true De Pinna A brief history on De Pinna, with label images Weaving Porsche Gerum Cloak Pepita Escher-McQueen Priscilla Chung Doug Blumeyer https://cmloegcmluin.wordpress.com/?s=houndstooth (247 pages!) The page gives links to all: Some outstanding, original work in the field. Schiaparelli Bear Bryant and Houndstooth http://capstonereport.com/2016/03/24/the-history-of-the-alabama-houndstooth-hat/30799/ http://bryantmuseum.com/ (can't find on site) http://capstonereport.com/2016/03/24/the-history-of-the-alabama-houndstooth-hat/30799/ Dorothy Draper https://alchetron.com/Dorothy-Draper#- https://insta-stalker.com/profile/dorothydraperfw/ https://www.westwing.fr/magazine/rencontres/dorothy-draper/ Coco Chanel http://www.tabulousdesign.com/2014/08/houndstooth/#.W9GcjWhKg2w William Powell https://bamfstyle.com/2014/07/29/thin-man-goes-home-check/ Drawing Variations Henri Jacobs (houndstooth) http://henrijacobsjournaldrawings.blogspot.com/2016/04/tuesday-5-april-2016-four-wall-drawing.html Checks https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/grids-plaids-windowpanes/ A general guide to various types of checks. Shepherd's Maud https://katedaviesdesigns.com/2009/09/26/more-on-mauds/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maud_(plaid) Shepherd's Plaid http://theclothshed.blogspot.com/2012/04/shepherds-plaid.html General http://blog.girlcharlee.co.uk/2016/12/tutorial-tuesday-history-of-houndstooth.html https://www.fashionologiahistoriana.com/costume-history-legends-essays-in-english/category/houndstooh-check Glen Check https://parisiangentleman.co.uk/2016/11/17/how-to-identify-a-glen-check-within-seconds-vbc-fabric-academy-6/ Tweed https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/tweed-guide-harris-history-styles-patterns/ This would be a nice site if only (a) it would print out without distortion and (b) remove the seemingly numerous adverts! Some Compilation Pages of Note Aside from the above, very few people have written about houndstooth in a considered manner. Admittedly, although discussed, this is generally in a throwaway manner. As a simple statement, these discuss houndstooth in a variety of ways, sometimes na ot in particularly scholarly way, but rather from an enthusiastic or fun viewpoint rather than scholarly approach: Josefine Gennert Jakobsson A very nice paper indeed, of considerable depth (81 pages), liberally illustrated with photographs with a slant towards fashion application and weaving (and more), is by Josefine Gennert Jakobsson, with a BA in fashion design, of the University of Borås The Swedish School of Textiles: http://www.diva-portal.org/smash/get/diva2:1237046/FULLTEXT01.pdf Anti-Houndstooth: ‘Anti-Houndstooth’ (name unknown) although from a rather negative point of view; rather this is from a dislike of the pattern! Here he/she catalogs various ‘crimes’ by its appearance! http://anti-houndstooth.blogspot.com/2010/
https://kknews.cc/fashion/33p9xba.html In Japanese. References in Print Books Note that not all of these books have been seen, never mind purchased; there are only so many hours in the day! In the fullness of time, I may indeed purposefully pursue some of the more notable references here. In short, dedicated books (and articles too) on houndstooth are, perhaps surprisingly, conspicuous by their absence. This being so, where houndstooth is indeed discussed, this typically appears as an aside. Note that the books differ in importance. Some, although desirable, are not strictly necessary in relation to houndstooth. For instance with Christian Dior, although central to the story, with a one- or two-page reference, and typically of an expensive book, it is judged uneconomic to pursue. Use is made of Google books, which typically serve the purpose. Black, Mary E. the sett and weaving of Tartans. Lily Mills Co, 1959 PDF de Rethy, Esmeralda. Christian Dior: The Early Years 1947-1957 Harry N. Abrams, 2001 Google Books Dior houndstooth references: pp. 112, 116 Dunbar, John Telfer: The Costume of Scotland, London: Batsford, 1984, paperback 1989 NOT SEEN Oft quoted book. Harrison, E. P. Scottish Estate Tweeds. Johnstons of Elgin, First Edition,1995 NOT SEEN Undoubtedly of the utmost importance. Jenkins, David (editor). The Cambridge History Of Western Textiles. 2003 NOT SEEN Jones, Owen. Grammar of Ornament. Bernard Quaritch. 1868, p. 15 Of note is a houndstooth pattern, p. 15, of plaited straw from the Sandwich Islands. Lockwood and Macmillan in Geometric Symmetry, p. 90, refers to this, although not referenced directly. O'Neil, Helen. David Jones: 175 years EDS Publications Ltd. 2013 NOT SEEN Pochna, Marie France. Christian Dior: The Man who Made the World Look New. New York: Arcade Pub. 1966 Google Books Dior houndstooth references pp. 62, 109, 123. Snodgrass, Mary Ellen. World Clothing and Fashion: An Encyclopedia of History, Culture, and Social Influence. Sharpe, 2014 Dior houndstooth references: pp. 189 (Cafe Anglais reference), 332. Wade, David. Geometric Patterns & Borders. Wildwood House Ltd. 1982 Houndstooth is shown as a black and white line drawing, fig. 260 (oddly, there no page numbers in the book). This is simply captioned ‘Hawaii’ without any more details forthcoming, which is in line with the book; the 600-line drawings are sourced from various cultures around the world, all of the same sparse detail as to origin. Likely, given the caption, this is sourced from Owen Jones’ Grammar of Ornament, with p. 15 bearing the same reference (there is no bibliography). However, the drawings slightly differ; Jones is of a square-based, and Wade isometric-based. Simply stated, a geometric pattern book, with line drawings from various cultures around the world. Text is purposefully kept to a minimum at the beginning of the book. Has many interesting designs. On Dior Specifically: de Rethy, Esmeralda. Christian Dior: The Early Years 1947-1957 Harry N. Abrams, 2001 Google Books Keenan, Brigid. Dior in Vogue. Random House Value Pub., 1983 Pochna, Marie France. Christian Dior: The Man who Made the World Look New New York: Arcade Pub. 1966 Google BooksHoundstooth references pp. 62, 109, 123. Snodgrass, Mary Ellen. World Clothing and Fashion: An Encyclopedia of History, Culture, and Social Influence. Sharpe, 2014 Houndstooth references: pp. 189 (Cafe Anglais reference), 332. Articles Feijs, Loe M.G. ‘Geometry and Computation of Houndstooth (Pied-de-Poule)’. In Robert Bosch, Reza Sarhangi & Douglas McKenna (eds) Proceedings of Bridges Towson Conference 2012, Mathematics, Music, Art, Architecture, Culture. 299-306 First, beginning in 2012, and continuing to the present day (2018), Loe Feijs, of TUE university, has written a series of articles on Houndstooth/Pied-de-poule, for successive Bridges conferences. Each article is broadly a combination of popular and scholarly accounts, and at times he uses his superior mathematical ability to write somewhat technically, far beyond my understanding. Be that as it may, these can be considered as a must read, and they leave writings by others far in the shade. A most pleasing discussion, although technical in places, but still largely popular, with some pleasing innovations, such as the houndstooth appearing in different orientations. Much mention of Heesch and Keinzle. Feijs, Loe M. G. and Marina Toeters. ‘Constructing and Applying the Fractal Pied de Poule (Houndstooth)’. In Proceedings of Bridges 2013, 429-432 A most pleasing discussion of a fractal premise, although somewhat technical in places. Feijs, Loe M. G., Marina Toeters, Jun Hu and Jihong Liu. ‘Design of a Nature-like Fractal Celebrating Warp-knitting’. Proceedings of Bridges Conference 2014, Mathematics, Music, Art, Architecture, Culture. 369-371 On warp knitting, rather than pied de poule, which is not mentioned. Of no real interest. Feijs, Loe M. G. and Marina Toeters. ‘A Novel Line Fractal Pied de Poule (Houndstooth)’ Bridges 2015 Conference Proceedings In short, houndstooth as a line fractal. Somewhat advanced in nature. Feijs, Loe M. G. and Marina Toeters. ‘Pied de Pulse: Packing Embroidered Circles and Coil Actuators in Pied de Poule (Houndstooth)’. Bridges Finland Conference Proceedings, 2016 415-418 In short, houndstooth as circles packing. Somewhat advanced in nature. Feijs, Loe M. G. and Marina Toeters. ‘A Cellular Automaton for Pied-de-Poule (Houndstooth)’. Proceedings of Bridges 2017, Mathematics, Art, Music, Architecture, Education, Culture. pp. 403-406. Tessellations Publishing, Phoenix, Arizona In short, houndstooth as cellular automatons. Somewhat advanced in nature. Gibbs, William. ‘Paper Patterns 4 – Paper Weaving’. Mathematics in School. November 1990, pp. 16-19 Of note is the erroneous reference here to the tiling Fig. 4, titled as ‘Shepherd's Check’. - ‘Three Directional Weaving’. Mathematics in School. March 1992, pp. 2-4. Of general interest. N. B. On Loe Feijs: Papers freely available at the Bridges Math Art paper repository; simply put in ‘Feijs’ in the search box: https://archive.bridgesmathart.org/search.py?search |
Houndstooth >